Susie's Travelogue
Spain and Portugal
Spain and Portugal
Part 4
By Susie R Cuñada
I was in Spain and Portugal last year for my pilgrimage tour. But I loved Spain so much that I’ve been pining to go back.
Therefore, I simply couldn’t pass up the last-minute travel deal that would take me back to the country I love, stay longer
and go to places where I haven’t been to before.
On this particular tour, we had a group of 48 people from Canada, the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Asia. I also came to
know that there were 8 other Filipinos in this tour – 6 from Chicago and 2 (a couple) from the Philippines.
As a backgrounder, Spain is a beautiful country with a long and compelling history. It has been invaded by many nations
and this has resulted in a huge diversity of traditions and gastronomy. Spain is a Roman Catholic country and remains
fiercely religious. Every town, city and village holds at least one fiesta a year which is celebrated by the locals with passion
and vigour (not to mention pride).
By Susie R Cuñada
I was in Spain and Portugal last year for my pilgrimage tour. But I loved Spain so much that I’ve been pining to go back.
Therefore, I simply couldn’t pass up the last-minute travel deal that would take me back to the country I love, stay longer
and go to places where I haven’t been to before.
On this particular tour, we had a group of 48 people from Canada, the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Asia. I also came to
know that there were 8 other Filipinos in this tour – 6 from Chicago and 2 (a couple) from the Philippines.
As a backgrounder, Spain is a beautiful country with a long and compelling history. It has been invaded by many nations
and this has resulted in a huge diversity of traditions and gastronomy. Spain is a Roman Catholic country and remains
fiercely religious. Every town, city and village holds at least one fiesta a year which is celebrated by the locals with passion
and vigour (not to mention pride).
Seville
Situated on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, Seville has a rich Moorish heritage, and used to be a prosperous port that
carried out trade with the Americas.
As a backgrounder, Seville is the biggest city in Andalucia and is one of the cities with more history, more art and culture. If
any one place comes close to rolling together everything that’s quintessentially Andalucian, it’s Seville.
Here in the region’s capital and biggest city, that special Andalucian way of life is distilled into its purest and most intense
form. Seville has the most passionate and portentous Semana Santa (Holy Week), the most festive and romantic annual
feria (fair), the best tapas bars, the best nightlife and the most stylish people in Andalucia. It has narrower, winding,
medieval lanes and romantic, hidden plazas soaked in the scent of orange blossom than half of Andalucia’s other cities
put together. It’s the home of those two bulwarks of Andalucian tradition, flamenco and bullfighting, and its heritage of art
and architecture (Roman, Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, baroque) is without rival in southern Spain.
And to have a taste of what Seville has to offer, our first stop was the Plaza de España, a beautiful Mudejar plaza
constructed for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It certainly is one of the most beautiful squares in Spain. An
impressive complex arranged around a central plaza, it includes a very large palace behind the open plaza. The façade of
the building is Baroque and the rest is Renaissance. Ceramic tiled bridges cross the small canal that separate the plaza
from the large building.
Situated on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, Seville has a rich Moorish heritage, and used to be a prosperous port that
carried out trade with the Americas.
As a backgrounder, Seville is the biggest city in Andalucia and is one of the cities with more history, more art and culture. If
any one place comes close to rolling together everything that’s quintessentially Andalucian, it’s Seville.
Here in the region’s capital and biggest city, that special Andalucian way of life is distilled into its purest and most intense
form. Seville has the most passionate and portentous Semana Santa (Holy Week), the most festive and romantic annual
feria (fair), the best tapas bars, the best nightlife and the most stylish people in Andalucia. It has narrower, winding,
medieval lanes and romantic, hidden plazas soaked in the scent of orange blossom than half of Andalucia’s other cities
put together. It’s the home of those two bulwarks of Andalucian tradition, flamenco and bullfighting, and its heritage of art
and architecture (Roman, Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, baroque) is without rival in southern Spain.
And to have a taste of what Seville has to offer, our first stop was the Plaza de España, a beautiful Mudejar plaza
constructed for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It certainly is one of the most beautiful squares in Spain. An
impressive complex arranged around a central plaza, it includes a very large palace behind the open plaza. The façade of
the building is Baroque and the rest is Renaissance. Ceramic tiled bridges cross the small canal that separate the plaza
from the large building.
As soon as we emerged into the plaza, I
was speechless! The grandeur before
my eyes was totally unexpected. It was
one of those moments that I don’t think
will ever be captured again. It was still
early in the morning and the rays of the
sun only hit some parts of the building
(as could be gleaned from the photos
below).
was speechless! The grandeur before
my eyes was totally unexpected. It was
one of those moments that I don’t think
will ever be captured again. It was still
early in the morning and the rays of the
sun only hit some parts of the building
(as could be gleaned from the photos
below).
But as the minutes progress,
the buildings suddenly
glowed from the sunlight that
it was simply spellbinding!
Guide books never tell you
what to expect. You have to be
there to experience it. To say
that it is impressive is an
understatement. It is
magnificent!!!
the buildings suddenly
glowed from the sunlight that
it was simply spellbinding!
Guide books never tell you
what to expect. You have to be
there to experience it. To say
that it is impressive is an
understatement. It is
magnificent!!!
Thereafter, we proceeded to the city’s next top attraction: the Alcazar, home to Seville’s rulers from Roman times. The
Moors built a compound of graceful tiled palaces here, ornately carved with ancient symbols, with beautiful rambling
gardens.
The Alcazar is one of the most beautiful palaces in Spain. It is also the oldest European royal residence and is not one
building, but a group of buildings from different time periods and each building has a different architectural style.
Moors built a compound of graceful tiled palaces here, ornately carved with ancient symbols, with beautiful rambling
gardens.
The Alcazar is one of the most beautiful palaces in Spain. It is also the oldest European royal residence and is not one
building, but a group of buildings from different time periods and each building has a different architectural style.
Nearby, and in direct contrast, is the Seville Cathedral. It is
the largest Gothic church in the world, awe inspiring in its
hugeness and simplicity. The Giralda tower at one end
was originally a Moorish minaret and was incorporated
into the design.
The building of the Cathedral of Seville was started in 1401
after the destruction of the Moorish mezquita that was in
that location. It is the 3rd largest church in the world, after
Saint Peter’s in Rome and Saint Paul’s in London.
Because the ceiling is so high, the cathedral is the largest
volume church in the world. The church also has a
renaissance and mannerist designs.
the largest Gothic church in the world, awe inspiring in its
hugeness and simplicity. The Giralda tower at one end
was originally a Moorish minaret and was incorporated
into the design.
The building of the Cathedral of Seville was started in 1401
after the destruction of the Moorish mezquita that was in
that location. It is the 3rd largest church in the world, after
Saint Peter’s in Rome and Saint Paul’s in London.
Because the ceiling is so high, the cathedral is the largest
volume church in the world. The church also has a
renaissance and mannerist designs.
When one enters the church, one has
the sense of being very small in such a
large church. The interior of the
cathedral is magnificent, with numerous
chapels, a beautiful choir, remarkable
vaulted ceilings and stained glass
windows. The best materials and
furnishings were used in building the
church. This included Flemish altar
screens, 75 stained glass windows,
sculptured portals, wrought iron grills,
marble floors, and bronze candelabra.
the sense of being very small in such a
large church. The interior of the
cathedral is magnificent, with numerous
chapels, a beautiful choir, remarkable
vaulted ceilings and stained glass
windows. The best materials and
furnishings were used in building the
church. This included Flemish altar
screens, 75 stained glass windows,
sculptured portals, wrought iron grills,
marble floors, and bronze candelabra.
The most spectacular part of the interior is undoubtedly the golden Retablo
Mayor (main altarpiece). The Retablo Mayor, the largest altarpiece in the
world, consists of 36 gilded relief panels depicting scenes from the old
testament and the lives of saints.
At one corner in the front of the church, in the transept, is the tomb of
Christopher Columbus. His body was brought here from Cuba at the end of
the 1890s. The sarcophagus of Columbus is carried by four large statues,
representing the kingdoms of Aragón, Castille, León and Navarra. Recent
DNA analysis by scientists show that the remains in this tomb belong to
Christopher Columbus, as they were compared to the bones of his son,
Fernando Colon, whose remains are in a tomb at the west end of the nave.
The crowning piece of the Seville Cathedral is the famous Giralda Bell
Tower. It used to be the minaret of the old mosque. The Christians topped
the minaret with a five-story bell tower in 1568. On top of the bell tower is a
weather vane in the form of a statue of Faith, called the giraldilla (something
that turns), since it turns with the wind. The statue has a standard and a
palm frond in his hands. That is how the tower got the name of La Giralda.
The cathedral has the UNESCO World Heritage designation. Also it has 500
priceless works of art, such as paintings by Murillo (the Immaculate
Conception and Saint Anthony), Zurbarán and Francisco de Goya.
Mayor (main altarpiece). The Retablo Mayor, the largest altarpiece in the
world, consists of 36 gilded relief panels depicting scenes from the old
testament and the lives of saints.
At one corner in the front of the church, in the transept, is the tomb of
Christopher Columbus. His body was brought here from Cuba at the end of
the 1890s. The sarcophagus of Columbus is carried by four large statues,
representing the kingdoms of Aragón, Castille, León and Navarra. Recent
DNA analysis by scientists show that the remains in this tomb belong to
Christopher Columbus, as they were compared to the bones of his son,
Fernando Colon, whose remains are in a tomb at the west end of the nave.
The crowning piece of the Seville Cathedral is the famous Giralda Bell
Tower. It used to be the minaret of the old mosque. The Christians topped
the minaret with a five-story bell tower in 1568. On top of the bell tower is a
weather vane in the form of a statue of Faith, called the giraldilla (something
that turns), since it turns with the wind. The statue has a standard and a
palm frond in his hands. That is how the tower got the name of La Giralda.
The cathedral has the UNESCO World Heritage designation. Also it has 500
priceless works of art, such as paintings by Murillo (the Immaculate
Conception and Saint Anthony), Zurbarán and Francisco de Goya.
The cloister has the beautiful Patio de los Naranjos. The garden is of Moorish origin and was built on top of the old
mosque’s courtyard. There is an octagonal Visigoth fountain in the center that was used by the Moors for religious
ablutions.
Thereafter, we were given some time to have lunch and wander around. And guess what, since tapas originated from
Seville, that was exactly what we had for lunch, topped off with sangria, at Don Juan Restaurant. Bliss!!!
After lunch, I opted to go back to the hotel, which was a good choice, and had a long siesta (thanks to the sangria). After
a much-needed rest, I dolled up for the evening for our dinner and Flamenco Show at El Palacio Andaluz.
mosque’s courtyard. There is an octagonal Visigoth fountain in the center that was used by the Moors for religious
ablutions.
Thereafter, we were given some time to have lunch and wander around. And guess what, since tapas originated from
Seville, that was exactly what we had for lunch, topped off with sangria, at Don Juan Restaurant. Bliss!!!
After lunch, I opted to go back to the hotel, which was a good choice, and had a long siesta (thanks to the sangria). After
a much-needed rest, I dolled up for the evening for our dinner and Flamenco Show at El Palacio Andaluz.
To recap, more than any other city in Spain, Seville shows the marks of the
country’s colourful and often tempestuous history. Orange scented,
passionate and gracious, Seville remains the archetype of Andalucian
promise. Every moment has the potential to be intense and dramatic.
But Seville’s most developed art form is that of enjoying oneself. To be out at
night among the city’s relaxed fun-loving crowds – in the tapas bars, on the
streets, in the clubs and discos – is an experience you won’t forget.
Portugal
Lisbon
After our buffet breakfast, we motored to our next destination: the sun-soaked city of Lisbon in Portugal.
Portugal can be summed up in 3 words: Sea, Romance and Sunshine!
Lisbon
After our buffet breakfast, we motored to our next destination: the sun-soaked city of Lisbon in Portugal.
Portugal can be summed up in 3 words: Sea, Romance and Sunshine!
While it's true that it’s no longer the Iberian Peninsula's best-kept secret, Portugal has an old-fashioned charm, with
medieval castles and picture-perfect villages scattered over meandering coastlines and flower-covered hillsides. From
the ancient university town of Coimbra to Lord Byron's favourite Portuguese haunt, Sintra, the country's proud history can
be felt everywhere.
Sun-kissed beaches like Cascais and Sagres offer enticements of a more hedonistic sort. Indeed, the dramatic, end-of-
the-world cliffs, wild dune-covered beaches, protected coves and long, sandy islands of Portugal's coastline have long
enchanted visitors and locals alike. Meanwhile, the country's capital, Lisbon, and its northern rival, Porto, are magical
places for the wanderer, with riverside views, cobblestone streets and rattling trams framed by looming cathedrals.
Everything – from cities with ancient
and contemporary attractions,
colorful medieval villages,
charming seaside towns, ancient
castles, romantic palaces, rich
architectural and archaeological
heritage, constant sunshine, to
green natural parks and
mountains, grand rivers, and a vast
coastline - all add up to Portugal's
surprising variety of landscapes
and cultural treasures.
and contemporary attractions,
colorful medieval villages,
charming seaside towns, ancient
castles, romantic palaces, rich
architectural and archaeological
heritage, constant sunshine, to
green natural parks and
mountains, grand rivers, and a vast
coastline - all add up to Portugal's
surprising variety of landscapes
and cultural treasures.
All of these and more, which is an astonishing variety for such a small country, combined with lower prices compared to
other European destinations, make it one of the most rewarding travel experiences in the world.
Anyhow, it was a long 7-hour drive towards Lisbon with an hour lunch break along the way. We drove past mountains
and countryside with lots of trees, switched back our timepieces for an hour, and finally reached our destination.
other European destinations, make it one of the most rewarding travel experiences in the world.
Anyhow, it was a long 7-hour drive towards Lisbon with an hour lunch break along the way. We drove past mountains
and countryside with lots of trees, switched back our timepieces for an hour, and finally reached our destination.
Lisbon (Lisboa in Portuguese) can be summed up in one
word: variety. From the 12th-century cathedral to the modern
bridges spanning the Tagus River, from the 18th-century
Aguas Livres aqueduct to the futuristic Oriental Station,
Lisbon traverses the ages.
Bathed in pure Atlantic light, crowned by the storybook St.
George's Castle and straddling seven hills, Lisbon is one of
Europe's most visually striking capitals. Looks aside, the city
will surely win you over with its genuine friendliness and
blissfully laidback pace. As Rafael had said, the Portuguese
have 3 speeds: slow, slower, still. I personally experienced
this laidback trait in one of my shopping expeditions (which I
will elaborate later).
Spread across steep hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo, Lisbon offers all the delights you would expect of Portugal’s
star attraction, yet with half the fuss of other European capitals. Gothic cathedrals, majestic monasteries and quaint
museums are all part of the colourful cityscape, but the real delights of discovery lie in wandering the narrow lanes of
Lisbon’s lovely backstreets.
Boasting springtime temperatures during the winter and cool summers freshened by a breeze blowing in from
the Atlantic, Lisbon offers a rich and impressively integrated diversity. The city's many neighborhoods include Moorish
Alfama, home of the city's tallest hill, and 17th-century Bairro Alto, with its hopping nightlife. Museums, castles, open-air
markets, funiculars, Fado music, Lisbon's pleasures include these and much more.
star attraction, yet with half the fuss of other European capitals. Gothic cathedrals, majestic monasteries and quaint
museums are all part of the colourful cityscape, but the real delights of discovery lie in wandering the narrow lanes of
Lisbon’s lovely backstreets.
Boasting springtime temperatures during the winter and cool summers freshened by a breeze blowing in from
the Atlantic, Lisbon offers a rich and impressively integrated diversity. The city's many neighborhoods include Moorish
Alfama, home of the city's tallest hill, and 17th-century Bairro Alto, with its hopping nightlife. Museums, castles, open-air
markets, funiculars, Fado music, Lisbon's pleasures include these and much more.
(Above) Lisbon’s version of the San Francisco Bridge
(Left) Lisbon’s version
of Brazil’s Christ the
Redeemer:
of Brazil’s Christ the
Redeemer:
Torre de Belém, Lisbon’s icon
Just four miles from the center of Lisbon, Belem is best known for Belem Tower, a 16th-century fortified lighthouse built
to guard the port. The area is also home to Belem Palace, built in the 16th century by King Manuel, and now the official
residence of Portugal’s president.
Built in 1515 as a fortress to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor, the Belem Tower was the starting point for many of
the voyages of discovery, and for the sailors it was the last sight of their homeland. This was, after all, the port from
which famous Portuguese navigators like Vasco de Gama set off to explore the world.
Portugal's caravels sailed off to conquer the great unknown from Belém, and today this leafy riverside precinct is a giant
monument to the nation's Age of Discoveries. You can climb the tower and look into the dungeons from when it was a
military prison. It is a monument to Portugal's Age of Discovery, often serving as a symbol of the country, and UNESCO
has listed it as a World Heritage monument.
to guard the port. The area is also home to Belem Palace, built in the 16th century by King Manuel, and now the official
residence of Portugal’s president.
Built in 1515 as a fortress to guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor, the Belem Tower was the starting point for many of
the voyages of discovery, and for the sailors it was the last sight of their homeland. This was, after all, the port from
which famous Portuguese navigators like Vasco de Gama set off to explore the world.
Portugal's caravels sailed off to conquer the great unknown from Belém, and today this leafy riverside precinct is a giant
monument to the nation's Age of Discoveries. You can climb the tower and look into the dungeons from when it was a
military prison. It is a monument to Portugal's Age of Discovery, often serving as a symbol of the country, and UNESCO
has listed it as a World Heritage monument.
The imposing limestone Monument to the Discoveries,
also facing the river nearby, is shaped like a caravel
and features key players from the era.
It represents a three-sailed ship ready to depart, with
sculptures of important historical figures, such as King
Manuel I carrying an armillary sphere, poet Camões
holding verses from The Lusiads, Vasco da Gama,
Magellan, Cabral, and several other notable
Portuguese explorers, crusaders, monks,
cartographers, and cosmographers, following Prince
Henry the Navigator at the prow holding a small
vessel. The only female is Queen Felipa of Lancaster,
mother of Henry the navigator, the brain of the
discoveries.
also facing the river nearby, is shaped like a caravel
and features key players from the era.
It represents a three-sailed ship ready to depart, with
sculptures of important historical figures, such as King
Manuel I carrying an armillary sphere, poet Camões
holding verses from The Lusiads, Vasco da Gama,
Magellan, Cabral, and several other notable
Portuguese explorers, crusaders, monks,
cartographers, and cosmographers, following Prince
Henry the Navigator at the prow holding a small
vessel. The only female is Queen Felipa of Lancaster,
mother of Henry the navigator, the brain of the
discoveries.
Inside is an exhibition space with temporary exhibits, an interesting film about the city of Lisbon, and an elevator that
takes visitors to the top for some bird's-eye views of Belem and its monuments.
The pavement in front of the monument is decorated with a mosaic that was offered by the South African government in
1960, representing a compass with the map of the world charting the routes taken by the Portuguese explorers.
takes visitors to the top for some bird's-eye views of Belem and its monuments.
The pavement in front of the monument is decorated with a mosaic that was offered by the South African government in
1960, representing a compass with the map of the world charting the routes taken by the Portuguese explorers.
A snapshot of Lisbon
Lisbon’s version of Segovia’s aqueduct