Susie's Travelogue
Pilgrimage to the Holy Land
(Oct 21-Nov. 7, 2013)
Pilgrimage to the Holy Land
(Oct 21-Nov. 7, 2013)
Part 22
By Susie R. Cuñada
By Susie R. Cuñada
Climbing Mount Sinai, Egypt
Got a wake-up “knock” on my door at 12:30am for our ascent of Mt. Sinai. Tessa decided not to join what I would consider
the “trek of a lifetime”. Only about 18 pilgrims decided to make the climb and after meeting our Beduoin guide, these brave
souls (me included) left the hotel at 1:00am, with the aim of making our way up before the sun rises in the morning.
Climbing Mount Sinai was the main objective of our pilgrimage to Egypt. So allow me to delve extensively on this subject.
In the Judeo-Christian region of the Middle East, there are four primary sacred mountains: Mt. Ararat in eastern Turkey, the
traditional landing place of Noah's ark; Mt. Sinai in the Sinai peninsula, the peak where Moses received the Ten
Commandments; Mt. Moriah or Mt. Zion in Israel, where lies the city of Jerusalem and the Temple of Solomon; and Mt.
Tabor in Israel, the site of the transfiguration of Jesus.
Geographically, Mt. Sinai, also called Mt. Horeb and Jebel Musa (the 'Mountain of Moses'), is in the middle of the Sinai
Peninsula, and rises 2,285 metres above sea level. It is next to Mount St. Catherine, which rises 2,629 metres, and
considered the highest peak in Egypt. It is surrounded on all sides by higher peaks of the mountain range.
Mount Sinai is said to be the place where Moses received the Ten Commandments from God. While there is very little
archaeological evidence to support this assertion, the mountain is still the centre of a greatly venerated pilgrimage
destination that includes the Monastery of St. Catherine, a Greek Orthodox monastery founded in the 6th century, one of the
longest-running monasteries in the world and itself at the supposed location of the Burning Bush, which I will talk about in
the next part.
As a backgrounder, Moses, the son of a Hebrew slave and considered the traditional founder of Judaism, was born in
Egypt. The Hebrews had been in bondage in Egypt for four hundred years from approximately 1650-1250 BC. Near the end
of this period, an Egyptian priest in the service of the Pharaoh made a prophecy that a child would be born to the Hebrews
that would one day free them from their slavery. The Pharaoh, on hearing this prophecy, ordered that every male child born
to the Hebrews should be killed by drowning. In hopes of preventing his death, Moses' parents placed him in a small
basket, which they set adrift on the Nile. He was found by the daughter of the Pharaoh and subsequently raised as an
adopted son of the royal family. During his upbringing he was extensively educated in the esoteric and magical traditions of
the Egyptian mystery schools. At the age of forty, Moses discovered that his original people, the Hebrews, were in bondage
to the Egyptians. Enraged at this cruel treatment, he killed an Egyptian overseer and fled into exile into the Sinai wilderness.
Approximately forty years later, while grazing his flocks on the side of Mt. Horeb, Moses came upon a burning bush that was,
miraculously, unconsumed by its own flames. A voice speaking out of the fire (Exodus 3:1-13) commanded him to lead his
people out of bondage in Egypt and return with them to the mountain. Upon his return, Moses twice climbed the mountain to
commune with God.
Regarding the second ascent, Exodus 24:16-18 states: And the glory of the Lord abode upon Mount Sinai, and the cloud
covered it six days; and the seventh day God called unto Moses out of the midst of the cloud. And the appearance of the
glory of the Lord was like devouring fire on the top of the mount in the eyes of the children of Israel. And Moses entered into
the midst of the cloud, and went up into the mount; and Moses was in the mount forty days and forty nights.
During this time on the mountain, Moses received two tablets upon which God had inscribed the Ten Commandments, as
well as precise dimensions for the Ark of the Covenant, a portable box-like shrine that would contain the tablets. Soon
thereafter, the Ark of the Covenant was constructed and Moses and his people departed from Mt. Sinai.
Fast forward to the present, a local Beduoin guide is required to climb the mountain despite the fact the trails are well
signposted once you get onto them.
Got a wake-up “knock” on my door at 12:30am for our ascent of Mt. Sinai. Tessa decided not to join what I would consider
the “trek of a lifetime”. Only about 18 pilgrims decided to make the climb and after meeting our Beduoin guide, these brave
souls (me included) left the hotel at 1:00am, with the aim of making our way up before the sun rises in the morning.
Climbing Mount Sinai was the main objective of our pilgrimage to Egypt. So allow me to delve extensively on this subject.
In the Judeo-Christian region of the Middle East, there are four primary sacred mountains: Mt. Ararat in eastern Turkey, the
traditional landing place of Noah's ark; Mt. Sinai in the Sinai peninsula, the peak where Moses received the Ten
Commandments; Mt. Moriah or Mt. Zion in Israel, where lies the city of Jerusalem and the Temple of Solomon; and Mt.
Tabor in Israel, the site of the transfiguration of Jesus.
Geographically, Mt. Sinai, also called Mt. Horeb and Jebel Musa (the 'Mountain of Moses'), is in the middle of the Sinai
Peninsula, and rises 2,285 metres above sea level. It is next to Mount St. Catherine, which rises 2,629 metres, and
considered the highest peak in Egypt. It is surrounded on all sides by higher peaks of the mountain range.
Mount Sinai is said to be the place where Moses received the Ten Commandments from God. While there is very little
archaeological evidence to support this assertion, the mountain is still the centre of a greatly venerated pilgrimage
destination that includes the Monastery of St. Catherine, a Greek Orthodox monastery founded in the 6th century, one of the
longest-running monasteries in the world and itself at the supposed location of the Burning Bush, which I will talk about in
the next part.
As a backgrounder, Moses, the son of a Hebrew slave and considered the traditional founder of Judaism, was born in
Egypt. The Hebrews had been in bondage in Egypt for four hundred years from approximately 1650-1250 BC. Near the end
of this period, an Egyptian priest in the service of the Pharaoh made a prophecy that a child would be born to the Hebrews
that would one day free them from their slavery. The Pharaoh, on hearing this prophecy, ordered that every male child born
to the Hebrews should be killed by drowning. In hopes of preventing his death, Moses' parents placed him in a small
basket, which they set adrift on the Nile. He was found by the daughter of the Pharaoh and subsequently raised as an
adopted son of the royal family. During his upbringing he was extensively educated in the esoteric and magical traditions of
the Egyptian mystery schools. At the age of forty, Moses discovered that his original people, the Hebrews, were in bondage
to the Egyptians. Enraged at this cruel treatment, he killed an Egyptian overseer and fled into exile into the Sinai wilderness.
Approximately forty years later, while grazing his flocks on the side of Mt. Horeb, Moses came upon a burning bush that was,
miraculously, unconsumed by its own flames. A voice speaking out of the fire (Exodus 3:1-13) commanded him to lead his
people out of bondage in Egypt and return with them to the mountain. Upon his return, Moses twice climbed the mountain to
commune with God.
Regarding the second ascent, Exodus 24:16-18 states: And the glory of the Lord abode upon Mount Sinai, and the cloud
covered it six days; and the seventh day God called unto Moses out of the midst of the cloud. And the appearance of the
glory of the Lord was like devouring fire on the top of the mount in the eyes of the children of Israel. And Moses entered into
the midst of the cloud, and went up into the mount; and Moses was in the mount forty days and forty nights.
During this time on the mountain, Moses received two tablets upon which God had inscribed the Ten Commandments, as
well as precise dimensions for the Ark of the Covenant, a portable box-like shrine that would contain the tablets. Soon
thereafter, the Ark of the Covenant was constructed and Moses and his people departed from Mt. Sinai.
Fast forward to the present, a local Beduoin guide is required to climb the mountain despite the fact the trails are well
signposted once you get onto them.
There are two routes to choose from, entrances to
which are rather poorly signposted, so choose carefully
especially if climbing at night. Both paths lead to a
natural amphitheater known as Elijah's Hollow or the
Seven Elders of Israel, where you'll find a teahouse for
a break. From there, it's a final 750 steps (30 minutes)
to reach the summit.
• Steps of Penitence or The Path of Moses (Siket
Syidna Musa). This aptly named steep path has been
quite literally carved out of the rock by monks, and with
3750 steps to climb, it is the shorter but more
challenging of the two. No mountain-climbing
equipment required though, just strong thighs, and the
views back down into the valley are superb even in the
middle of the night. If the sky is clear, the stars above
can also be a spellbinding sight, as there are no major
cities for miles and miles around. The route can be
which are rather poorly signposted, so choose carefully
especially if climbing at night. Both paths lead to a
natural amphitheater known as Elijah's Hollow or the
Seven Elders of Israel, where you'll find a teahouse for
a break. From there, it's a final 750 steps (30 minutes)
to reach the summit.
• Steps of Penitence or The Path of Moses (Siket
Syidna Musa). This aptly named steep path has been
quite literally carved out of the rock by monks, and with
3750 steps to climb, it is the shorter but more
challenging of the two. No mountain-climbing
equipment required though, just strong thighs, and the
views back down into the valley are superb even in the
middle of the night. If the sky is clear, the stars above
can also be a spellbinding sight, as there are no major
cities for miles and miles around. The route can be
climbed in as little as 45 minutes, or as long as three hours, depending on your pace.
• Camel Path (Siket El Bashait). A gentler, winding, wide path that snakes its way up to the summit that can be completed by
the average traveler in 2.5 hours. As you can guess from the name, you can also climb up this way on the back of camel, and
the "sawdust" that appears to coat much of the length of the path is, in fact, dried camel byproducts from the many trips
before you. Be warned that the camel will bite you if it doesn't like you, so be nice, and a 3-hour ride up a mountain — going
on foot is actually faster for most people — may not be the easiest introduction to the notoriously swaying gait of these
camels. You'll also have to dismount about a kilometer before you reach the top and cover the last 750 steps on foot.
Understandably, it was the Camel Path that we took on the back of the camel. I don’t think I would have survived climbing my
way up to the summit.
We were each assigned a camel although I noticed that the camels were tied together in groups of 2 or 3, and a handler. As
soon as the handler saw me (thinking I was a child due to my size and under the cover of darkness I may have looked like
one), he practically scooped me up and placed me onto the camel’s back. I laughed at the hilarity of it all, thanking God at
the same time that I didn’t have to undergo the process of mounting a camel which, I heard, is far from elegant.
Nevertheless, I had to undergo the experience of suddenly finding myself pitching forward while the camel shuffles to get its
stilt-like hind legs underneath it, and then buckling backwards with a lurch as its front legs scramble to straighten and,
finally, hauls its chassis up to its full towering height, accompanied by a decidedly unenthusiastic, reverberating groan. And
that’s just a start!
Gripping the ‘handlebar’ at the top of the saddle for dear life so I don’t fall over, my body simply screamed fear! Besides,
there are no stirrups so your legs hang loose. We were reminded to relax because the camel apparently can “feel” how we
feel.
Anyhow, I started to relax as we headed up towards the mountain at a lumbering pace as the handler in front pulls insistently
at the lead rope. With a smile on my face, I started to enjoy the tranquil desert night, as my cup runneth over with the kind of
elation that occurs only when you are about to check out a major top-of-the-pile bucket list item.
But my elation did not last long. I soon found out my camel was a rebel. Although I learned that only male camels work
(apparently female camels are very moody), my camel had a mind of his own. While the other camels stayed on the right
side of the path, my camel stayed on the left side like he wanted to walk by the cliff! Dios mio!!! Although it was pitch dark, I
was certain that there was a very steep embankment beside the path and with one slip, I was 100% certain we would fall
and I was going to die.
So what I did was I leaned towards the right in the hope that the camel would follow my lead. But the handler warned me to
relax and sit comfortably. I told him that the camel insisted on walking on the left side while the rest of the camels walked on
the right side of the path. The handler then hollered at the camel in Arabic, but to no avail. Apparently, camels occasionally
seem to practice selective hearing by simply refusing to follow instructions. OMG!
Since I cannot enjoy the scenery around me due to extreme darkness, and with fright written all over my face, I did what I
always do best – PRAY. True enough, God must have heard my prayer because I survived the ordeal.
After 2.5 hours of our camel ride, we reached the plateau where we dismounted. Again, I had to undergo the similar routine
of leaning slightly backwards to avoid tumbling over his head as he folds his hind legs and then leaning forward as he folds
his forelegs. Since I’m tiny, and with trembling legs and aching bum, dismounting was a bit tricky. When he saw my
predicament, the handler again scooped me up from the saddle and returned me to terra firma. Whew - what a ride!
We then went inside a “tea house” for some rest, after which we started the climb of 750 steps towards the summit. I was
aided by the ever-caring Natalie, another pilgrim, whom I called my guardian angel. Without her, I wouldn’t know if I would
have made it to the summit before sunrise. Huffing and puffing my way to the top, with quick stops along the way to catch my
breath and adjust to the altitude, I finally made it – in time for the sunrise!
• Camel Path (Siket El Bashait). A gentler, winding, wide path that snakes its way up to the summit that can be completed by
the average traveler in 2.5 hours. As you can guess from the name, you can also climb up this way on the back of camel, and
the "sawdust" that appears to coat much of the length of the path is, in fact, dried camel byproducts from the many trips
before you. Be warned that the camel will bite you if it doesn't like you, so be nice, and a 3-hour ride up a mountain — going
on foot is actually faster for most people — may not be the easiest introduction to the notoriously swaying gait of these
camels. You'll also have to dismount about a kilometer before you reach the top and cover the last 750 steps on foot.
Understandably, it was the Camel Path that we took on the back of the camel. I don’t think I would have survived climbing my
way up to the summit.
We were each assigned a camel although I noticed that the camels were tied together in groups of 2 or 3, and a handler. As
soon as the handler saw me (thinking I was a child due to my size and under the cover of darkness I may have looked like
one), he practically scooped me up and placed me onto the camel’s back. I laughed at the hilarity of it all, thanking God at
the same time that I didn’t have to undergo the process of mounting a camel which, I heard, is far from elegant.
Nevertheless, I had to undergo the experience of suddenly finding myself pitching forward while the camel shuffles to get its
stilt-like hind legs underneath it, and then buckling backwards with a lurch as its front legs scramble to straighten and,
finally, hauls its chassis up to its full towering height, accompanied by a decidedly unenthusiastic, reverberating groan. And
that’s just a start!
Gripping the ‘handlebar’ at the top of the saddle for dear life so I don’t fall over, my body simply screamed fear! Besides,
there are no stirrups so your legs hang loose. We were reminded to relax because the camel apparently can “feel” how we
feel.
Anyhow, I started to relax as we headed up towards the mountain at a lumbering pace as the handler in front pulls insistently
at the lead rope. With a smile on my face, I started to enjoy the tranquil desert night, as my cup runneth over with the kind of
elation that occurs only when you are about to check out a major top-of-the-pile bucket list item.
But my elation did not last long. I soon found out my camel was a rebel. Although I learned that only male camels work
(apparently female camels are very moody), my camel had a mind of his own. While the other camels stayed on the right
side of the path, my camel stayed on the left side like he wanted to walk by the cliff! Dios mio!!! Although it was pitch dark, I
was certain that there was a very steep embankment beside the path and with one slip, I was 100% certain we would fall
and I was going to die.
So what I did was I leaned towards the right in the hope that the camel would follow my lead. But the handler warned me to
relax and sit comfortably. I told him that the camel insisted on walking on the left side while the rest of the camels walked on
the right side of the path. The handler then hollered at the camel in Arabic, but to no avail. Apparently, camels occasionally
seem to practice selective hearing by simply refusing to follow instructions. OMG!
Since I cannot enjoy the scenery around me due to extreme darkness, and with fright written all over my face, I did what I
always do best – PRAY. True enough, God must have heard my prayer because I survived the ordeal.
After 2.5 hours of our camel ride, we reached the plateau where we dismounted. Again, I had to undergo the similar routine
of leaning slightly backwards to avoid tumbling over his head as he folds his hind legs and then leaning forward as he folds
his forelegs. Since I’m tiny, and with trembling legs and aching bum, dismounting was a bit tricky. When he saw my
predicament, the handler again scooped me up from the saddle and returned me to terra firma. Whew - what a ride!
We then went inside a “tea house” for some rest, after which we started the climb of 750 steps towards the summit. I was
aided by the ever-caring Natalie, another pilgrim, whom I called my guardian angel. Without her, I wouldn’t know if I would
have made it to the summit before sunrise. Huffing and puffing my way to the top, with quick stops along the way to catch my
breath and adjust to the altitude, I finally made it – in time for the sunrise!
We then positioned ourselves for the “perfect spot” in order to get
the “perfect shots” of the amazing sunrise. Better yet, if you timed
your ascent right, as we did, you can see the sunrise over the
parched, rocky expanse of the Sinai.
Watching the sunrise at the summit was breathtaking! I can only
marvel at the beauty of God’s creation coming alive before my
eyes. My description of how truly amazing it really is would just fall
short so I wouldn’t even try. Likewise, the summit also provided a
fantabulous view of the surrounding mountain ranges and valleys.
Simply awesome!
Note that it will be much cooler at the summit than on the coast,
and in the winter at night, subzero temperatures and even snow are
not unknown. Dress warmly in layers, and a flashlight is also a
must. Blankets and mattresses can be rented at the top, payable in
Egyptian pounds per piece, but their state of cleanliness may be
questionable.
Currently, there is no archaeological evidence to suggest that the
7507-foot granite peak of Jebel Musa on the Sinai Peninsula is the
actual Mt. Sinai of the Old Testament, and various scholars have
proposed several alternative locations. The association of Jebel
Musa with the Biblical Mt. Sinai seems to have first developed in the
3rd century AD when hermits living in caves on the mountain began
to identify their mountain with the ancient holy peak.
On the peak of Jebel Musa stands a small chapel dedicated to the
the “perfect shots” of the amazing sunrise. Better yet, if you timed
your ascent right, as we did, you can see the sunrise over the
parched, rocky expanse of the Sinai.
Watching the sunrise at the summit was breathtaking! I can only
marvel at the beauty of God’s creation coming alive before my
eyes. My description of how truly amazing it really is would just fall
short so I wouldn’t even try. Likewise, the summit also provided a
fantabulous view of the surrounding mountain ranges and valleys.
Simply awesome!
Note that it will be much cooler at the summit than on the coast,
and in the winter at night, subzero temperatures and even snow are
not unknown. Dress warmly in layers, and a flashlight is also a
must. Blankets and mattresses can be rented at the top, payable in
Egyptian pounds per piece, but their state of cleanliness may be
questionable.
Currently, there is no archaeological evidence to suggest that the
7507-foot granite peak of Jebel Musa on the Sinai Peninsula is the
actual Mt. Sinai of the Old Testament, and various scholars have
proposed several alternative locations. The association of Jebel
Musa with the Biblical Mt. Sinai seems to have first developed in the
3rd century AD when hermits living in caves on the mountain began
to identify their mountain with the ancient holy peak.
On the peak of Jebel Musa stands a small chapel dedicated to the
Seven hundred and fifty steps below the
summit and its chapel is the plateau known
as Elijah's Basin, where Elijah spent 40 days
and nights communing with God in a cave.
Nearby is a rock on which Aaron, the brother of
Moses, and 70 elders stood while Moses
received the law. Northwest of Elijah's plateau
is Jebel Safsaafa, where Byzantine hermits
such as St. Gregory lived and prayed. Beneath
the 2168 meter summit of Ras Safsaafa
stands the Plain of ar-Raaha, where the
Israelites camped at the time Moses
ascended the mountain and where Moses
erected the first tabernacle.
Nevertheless, the intense silence of the
mountain as well as its spiritual history
makes it a popular spot for yoga and
meditation groups. But in our case, we
celebrated the Mass, officiated by Fr. Neil. It
summit and its chapel is the plateau known
as Elijah's Basin, where Elijah spent 40 days
and nights communing with God in a cave.
Nearby is a rock on which Aaron, the brother of
Moses, and 70 elders stood while Moses
received the law. Northwest of Elijah's plateau
is Jebel Safsaafa, where Byzantine hermits
such as St. Gregory lived and prayed. Beneath
the 2168 meter summit of Ras Safsaafa
stands the Plain of ar-Raaha, where the
Israelites camped at the time Moses
ascended the mountain and where Moses
erected the first tabernacle.
Nevertheless, the intense silence of the
mountain as well as its spiritual history
makes it a popular spot for yoga and
meditation groups. But in our case, we
celebrated the Mass, officiated by Fr. Neil. It
Holy Trinity, but is not open to the public.
This chapel, constructed in 1934 on the ruins of a 16th-century church, is believed to enclose the rock from which God
made the Tablets of the Law. In the western wall of this chapel is a cleft in the rock where Moses is said to have hidden
himself as God's glory passed by.
This chapel, constructed in 1934 on the ruins of a 16th-century church, is believed to enclose the rock from which God
made the Tablets of the Law. In the western wall of this chapel is a cleft in the rock where Moses is said to have hidden
himself as God's glory passed by.
was one of the highlights of my trip. Never in my wildest dreams have I imagined myself taking part in the celebration of the
Holy Mass at the top of Mt. Sinai. Again, this was another time in the pilgrimage when I felt very close to the Almighty God. I
wasn’t just happy – I was filled with joy! And I know I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again – how much closer to heaven
can you get?
Holy Mass at the top of Mt. Sinai. Again, this was another time in the pilgrimage when I felt very close to the Almighty God. I
wasn’t just happy – I was filled with joy! And I know I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again – how much closer to heaven
can you get?
By any other standards, Mt. Sinai would be just
another barren peak lost among the martian
landscape of the Sinai Peninsula. It is neither
the highest mountain in the region, nor the most
dramatic; there is no soaring, heaven-reaching
apex, and it is rare to see anything resembling a
divine shroud of clouds hugging its peak. Were
it not for a single, overwhelming belief that has
endured for over fifteen centuries, Mt. Sinai
would probably be a topographical footnote.
On the other hand, it seems almost strange to
speak of a mountain like Mt. Sinai in clinical
terms. There is so much mystery surrounding
the mountain, so much spiritual projection and
adulation that one can easily forget that it is,
another barren peak lost among the martian
landscape of the Sinai Peninsula. It is neither
the highest mountain in the region, nor the most
dramatic; there is no soaring, heaven-reaching
apex, and it is rare to see anything resembling a
divine shroud of clouds hugging its peak. Were
it not for a single, overwhelming belief that has
endured for over fifteen centuries, Mt. Sinai
would probably be a topographical footnote.
On the other hand, it seems almost strange to
speak of a mountain like Mt. Sinai in clinical
terms. There is so much mystery surrounding
the mountain, so much spiritual projection and
adulation that one can easily forget that it is,
after all, a mountain, and climbing it requires an individual to be in moderate shape. It takes about 3 hours to climb the
7,495-foot peak following the Path of Moses, a stairway of nearly 4,000 steps; or a longer, less strenuous route up the
opposite side, though it is less scenic. In both cases, one should bring good hiking shoes and plenty of water.
BUT - this is the mountain where God spoke to Moses. That, at least, is the overwhelming belief, and the belief itself has
drawn pilgrims for over a thousand years.
And that, in itself, to me, is worth the climb.
To Be Continued………
7,495-foot peak following the Path of Moses, a stairway of nearly 4,000 steps; or a longer, less strenuous route up the
opposite side, though it is less scenic. In both cases, one should bring good hiking shoes and plenty of water.
BUT - this is the mountain where God spoke to Moses. That, at least, is the overwhelming belief, and the belief itself has
drawn pilgrims for over a thousand years.
And that, in itself, to me, is worth the climb.
To Be Continued………