Pilgrimage Travelogue
A highly spiritual journey of a
lifetime









a highly
Part 1
By Susie R. Cuñada

Editor’s Note: The author’s pilgrimage started on May 26, 2011 in France. While her travelogue describes in detail points of
interest in Paris (author's first stop), for this issue of Asian Wisconzine, we are focusing on Lourdes, France first. After all, we
Catholics celebrate Dec. 8, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception big time, and it is also the author’s dream to visit
Lourdes at least once in her lifetime. As it is the dream of every Catholic anywhere


Once-in-a-lifetime experiences are as exhilarating as they are enriching.  As a matter of fact, unique, one-of-a kind events
that create a lasting memory are one of the great reasons to travel.  And a pilgrimage tour is no exception.  Mr. Webster
defines pilgrimage as a “journey to a sacred place or shrine.”  

Personally, I’m fascinated by the ways in which travel and spirituality intersect.  Certain places have an almost magnetic
pull on our souls, whether they’re to a holy site in a distant land or to a place of private meaning for a single person.  But
one thing that makes the pilgrimage different is the attitude toward it.  However skeptical one may be about the basis of the
pilgrimage and the supposedly “legends” surrounding it, one cannot help but be affected by it.  And although it is not free of
contradictions, one of its many little ironies is that the first step toward this state entails a certain amount of very practical
preparation ahead of time.  Yes, it's difficult to find the time and money, and even more difficult to do, but for those who want
something more, you'll find it in your soul.  As it did in mine.

Lourdes, France, is the pilgrimage site that I have been looking forward to visit in my lifetime. So allow me to delve lengthily
into this portion of the trip.

Friday, June 1st – Lourdes (France)

By way of introduction, Lourdes is a bustling Pyrenees village, best known for famous Virgin Mary sightings, that is central
to several other great cities and attractions. The city is also in a prime location in that the Pyrenees are steps away to the
south, and Spain is just a few kilometers away. It is the perfect destination for the adventure traveler, with numerous
outdoor activities close by.

Lourdes is second only to Paris in the number of hotel rooms available in a single city in France.  It is also the second most
popular tourism city in all of France, attracting five million pilgrims annually from throughout the globe to the cave where a
peasant girl had several Virgin Mary sightings.

Although Lourdes' spiritual atmosphere is tainted by numerous shops selling tacky religious trinkets (think framed, velvet
Jesus art and hot pink plastic rosaries), even an atheist could appreciate the splendor of the enormous Basilica of the
Rosary. It was built in response to the hordes of people that began to descend on the city after the Virgin Mary sightings,
and is an amazing example of architecture.

As a backgrounder, beginning on February 11, 1858, a 14-year old peasant girl called Bernadette Soubirous claimed to
have experienced a series of apparitions of a girl dressed in white and with a blue belt around her waist, who eventually
introduced herself as the Immaculate Conception, a name by which the Virgin Mary was known.

On land bordered by a loop of the Gave de Pau river is an outcrop of rock called Massabielle. On the northern aspect of this
rock near the riverbank is a naturally occurring, irregularly shaped shallow cave or grotto, in which the apparitions took
place. At the time of the apparitions, the grotto lay well out of town, on common ground which was used by the villagers for
pasturing animals, collecting firewood and as a garbage dump, and it possessed a reputation for being an unpleasant
place.

And on February 25th, which was considered to be the 9th apparition, Bernadette claimed to have been directed to a spring
that had not existed in the grotto. No fountain was to be seen, but when Bernadette dug at a spot designated by the
apparition, a spring began to flow. Its discovery by Bernadette, witnessed by hundreds of onlookers, was eventually
declared miraculous. Later studies have shown that the water is pure and contains chlorides of soda, lime and magnesia,
bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, silicates of lime and aluminum, oxide of iron, sulphate of soda, phosphate, and
organic matter and, therefore, contains no therapeutic ingredients. However, the water was claimed to be capable of
healing the sick and lame. Of the many thousands of pilgrims who visit Lourdes every year, some claim to have been
miraculously healed. It is estimated that the spring has produced 27,000 gallons of water each week since it first emerged
during Bernadette's visions.

Nevertheless, the figure always appeared in one place, a niche above the main cavity of the grotto, in which a wild rose
bush was growing. Among the instructions from 'the Virgin' were "Go and drink from the spring," "Go and tell the priests to
build a chapel here," and "Have the people come here in procession." These three instructions in particular were to prove
pivotal in the development of the Domain and its ceremonies. Public interest in the apparitions grew, and curious visitors
began to be replaced by pilgrims from increasingly far away, drawn by compelling stories of apparitions and miracles.

Thereafter, a local priest, together with his bishop, bought the grotto and the land around it from the commune in 1861,
three years after the apparitions. Immediately they set about modifying the area to make it more accessible to visitors, and
started work to build the first of the churches.

In 1864, a Lyonnais sculptor Joseph-Hugues Fabisch was commissioned to create a statue of Our Lady of Lourdes based
on Bernadette's descriptions. The statue rests in the niche where the Virgin appeared to Bernadette. The original wild rose
bush was destroyed shortly after the apparitions by pilgrims seeking relics, but a newer one has been planted nearby.

However, due to French political upheaval resulting in an enforced separation of Church and State, the property and
grounds of the Domain were confiscated from the Church and returned to the ownership of the town in 1910.  The then
bishop contested this confiscation, and was permitted to rent the Domain from the town until the outbreak of World War I in
1914. Later, a visit to Lourdes by Marshal Pétain in 1941 provided official recognition of the Domain. Church officials
successfully petitioned Pétain to allow the Church to reclaim ownership of the Domain.

Currently, the Bishop of Tarbes and Lourdes is responsible for the spiritual governance of the Domain. He appoints a local
representative, who is called the Rector. There are 30 full-time chaplains working in the Domain, from dioceses and
religious communities worldwide. There are 292 full-time lay employees and a further 120 seasonal employees working in
63 different divisions, with an annual running budget of €18 million, 90% of which comes from donation.  

The Domain is open all year round. An estimated 200 million people have visited the shrine since 1860, and the Roman
Catholic Church has officially recognized 67 miracle healings. About 800 tons of wax is burnt annually in devotional candles.

Anyhow, when we arrived at the place, I was just in awe of the size and enormity of the Rosary Square, the open space in
front of the Rosary Basilica. The Statue of the Crowned Virgin, often known as the "Crowned Statue", stands across Rosary
Square from the Rosary Basilica and faces the entrance.  This prominent statue is a familiar landmark and a traditional
meeting point. The statue is 2.5m high and cast in bronze, painted white and blue in the traditional colors. Behind the
Crowned Statue is the Esplanade, a large open walkway which is used in the processions.

We then proceeded to the grotto to pray. This is my first view of the grotto which was late at night. Most of the pilgrims were
gone and only a handful of people prayed at Massabielle in the shade of the massive gray cliffs, above which rested the
gothic majesty of the double basilica. In contrast to the grandness of the Rosary Square, the grotto where St. Bernadette's
visions took place is very simple and stark. The recess of the grotto itself is undecorated, although a plain stone altar and
lectern have been placed there so that Masses can be said. Above the main recess is the niche where the apparitions took
place and the statue now stands. A large stand of candles next to the altar is kept burning.

As I knelt to pray, there was a brand of awe that can only be experienced when visiting a spot where an extraordinary event
occurred. The reality of Bernadette’s story hit me hard, a story of wonder and suffering culminating in thousands of healings
in the waters of the spring she had dug beneath the Virgin’s feet.

The spring Bernadette is said to have dug can be seen at the rear of the grotto, shielded by a glass cover. Pilgrims can
process through the grotto and it is traditional to touch the rocks directly under the statue and, indeed, so many people have
done this that the stones have become polished. Also at the rear of the grotto is a metal box into which written prayers or
petitions may be deposited and they are collected daily and burnt. Rows of benches allow visitors to sit and pray or
contemplate. Pilgrims are asked to remain silent while in the vicinity to create an atmosphere of devotion. One of the spots
where Bernadette prayed to the Virgin is marked by a special paving slab.

Thursday, June 2nd – Lourdes (France)
Torchlight procession
It was a full-day affair at Lourdes. So we slept in a little bit, had breakfast,
and we all then went to the grotto for our mass.  It was a concelebrated
mass with Fr. Jerry as one of the concelebrants. As you can imagine, there
were hundreds (if not thousands) of people, including those in wheelchairs
and the infirmed, who attended the mass.  Personally, the rainy weather
marred my experience. Instead of concentrating fully in front of the grotto, I
was shivering from the cold rain.  Nevertheless, it was still an unforgettable
experience.

After mass, we went to the Upper Basilica of the Immaculate Conception,
known widely as the Upper Basilica, the second of the churches to be
completed, consecrated in 1876. It is an impressive, elaborate building in
Gothic style and on one side seems to emerge directly from the rock of
Massabielle (the sanctuary is directly above the Grotto). The walls are lined
with ex voto plaques and banners from official National Pilgrimages of the
past.  It has a series of stained-glass windows depicting various events in
the story of Lourdes while the clerestory windows depict Mary as the Second
Eve. The exterior is dominated by a 70m spire, and two lesser spires.  
Above the entrance is a mosaic depicting Pope Pius IX, who defined the
dogma of the Immaculate Conception in 1854.

The Rosary Basilica, on the other hand, is the third of the churches to be
completed in 1899 and was consecrated in 1901 and has a capacity of
1,500 worshippers. Its style is influenced by Byzantine architecture. The
nave is open and circular, surmounted by a dome. The exterior of the dome
is surmounted by a dramatic gilded crown and cross, which were a gift from
the people of Ireland in 1924.

After our photo ops, Marilyn, Grace and I drank water that comes from the
spring.

After lunch, we went back to the grotto for the so-called “Baths.”  

The Baths of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes are marble bathing pools
where pilgrims are immersed as they respond to the request of Our Lady to
Bernadette: “Go drink of the spring and wash yourself there”.  Going through
the Baths is a human and spiritual experience carried out by pilgrims who
wish to renew their baptismal commitment.  The water for the Baths is
provided by the spring of the grotto. There is free access to the Baths and
there is no need to make a reservation. Pilgrims do not need to bring
anything with them.  All that is required is provided on the spot to preserve a
person’s modesty and dignity.

Anyhow, we lined up along with hundreds (if not thousands) of pilgrims
waiting for our turn to get in.  Can you imagine lining up for about two hours
just to be dunked in freezing cold water? So finally, they let us in to sit and
wait.  We were told to pray and think of our intentions. Then it was my turn.
The helpers in the baths assisted and guided me and at no time was I
naked. I went into the undressing area where they put a blue cape on me
and made me wait for my turn to go into the bath itself, where there were
three other people waiting to assist me.  The blue cape was taken off at the
same time the white cloth I wore into the bath itself was put on me.  I was
made to sit and soak for seconds in water while they prayed with me and
then made me stand up and helped me dress immediately without allowing
me to even dry my body. I do have to warn you that the water is extremely
cold and can be a shock to your system.  But guess what, I was not freezing
when I got out of the bath itself and the bizarre thing was that I was bone dry.
It was a very moving experience and a bit overwhelming.

After having been “cleansed” physically, Marilyn and I went to The Chapel of
Reconciliation for confession. The Chapel is somewhat unusual in that no
masses or other services take place there; instead it is given over entirely to the Sacrament of Reconciliation. Priests from
different countries observe a duty roster, which means that at almost any time of day, pilgrims can find a priest who will
hear their confession in their own language. Anyhow, the priest that I went to was from Ireland and it was done in such a
way that I just seemed to have a conversation with him instead of the usual “recitation” of my sins. And so far, it was the
best confession I ever had in my entire life. As you know, every once in a while an episode in your life changes the way you
think, feel, or look at things, and that experience was certainly one of those times.

Thereafter, we decided to have a closer look at the Spring which is at the same spot where it was discovered by
Bernadette.  The original spring can be seen within the Grotto, lit from below and protected by a glass screen.  The water
was thoroughly analyzed by independent chemists in 1858 and 1859. It does not appear to have a latent power to cure
and has no special scientific or medical properties. Despite this, the water is itself a strong symbol of devotion for
Lourdes’ pilgrims.

That night, we attended the Torchlight Procession. Processions are held in the Domain, with the Torchlight Procession
being perhaps the best known and most visually impressive. It takes place daily at 8:45 p.m. and begins outside the
Grotto, passed the Gave, alongside the ramps, and ends up in the Rosary Square. The procession is led by pilgrims
bearing a replica of the Statue of the Virgin Mary. The groups usually proceed together under their group banner. Most
participants carry a candle with a paper shade which diffuses the light and makes the candle less likely to blow out. The
focus of this procession is the rosary. All five decades are recited, usually in a variety of languages. The Lourdes Hymn is
also sung, with verses in different languages. Intercessions may be invoked followed by the Laudate Mariam. The final
blessing is in Latin.

Personally, I had goose bumps when we attended the procession, due to both awe and wonder.  It was thrilling to be on
soil sanctified by the Blessed Virgin Mary’s presence. The crush of humanity was intoxicating, as was the impressive torch
and candlelight procession. Any other crowd gathered for any other purpose wouldn’t be as reverential as the one
gathered that evening. It was simply inspiring!

Thereafter, we went to get more Lourdes water to take with us on the trip.  And we then called it a night.

Note:  As an addendum, many people remain skeptical about Lourdes and its supposed healing power, arguing that any
improvement offered by the shrine is no more than the placebo effect, and that the ceremonies and processions are no
better than faith-healing on a grand scale.  Whatever your religious orientation may be - is your choice.  Let it be clear that
I am not imposing my beliefs on anyone. I am just narrating my stories and my beliefs which you can take with a grain of
salt.